Cambodia (part 5)
Kampot and back to Siem Reap

The Madbookings team have recently been to Cambodia so read on our travel blog page what happened in Cambodia and what we discovered on the way around Cambodia

 

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Read part four

I can enjoy a small lie in this morning as I have booked a 10h30 bus to Kampot which will be collecting me from my guesthouse, so a nice leisurely start a slow relaxing breakfast on the patio with extra coffee, then pack my bags, vacate the room, settle my bill and take a seat in the reception to await the bus pick up......

10h15 no bus.. 10h30 no bus... 10h45 still no bus, I phone and check and am told not to worry its on its way, they have just had a few issues loading up some other passengers!
At 11h00 it duly arrives and I find out what the issue is... it has been horribly overbooked, the minibus is totally packed too the brim with backpackers, there is almost room for me but not my bags, they explain that there is another bus later but not until 15h30 which would mean hanging around Sihanoukville another few hours then arriving in Kampot after dark, neither of which I wanted, so I said no problem I would squeeze in and put my bags on my lap for the journey>

As I get ready to climb in the young lady in the front seat jumps out and says she will squeeze in the back with all her friends as they were the ones who overfilled the minibus (and she was very skinny) so feeling a little embarrassed (and old?) I got the front seat and only had to share with my bags and two backpacks.

Fortunately for the people squashed in the back it is a short two hour journey on a decent tar road with not too much traffic and apart from sitting under a backpack for the journey I arrive in Kampot fresh and relaxed.

Cambodia

Cambodia

Cambodia

Kampot

What a breath of fresh air Kampot is both literally and figuratively!

Kampot is a small town located around the Kampong Bay River in the southwest of Cambodia a sleepy mellow paced river town, the breeze from the nearby Bokor hills floats down the river and along the quiet boulevards of the town, cafes, shophouses, hotels and small souvenir shacks are sprinkled throughout and there is no hassle, even from the moto and remork drivers who at best sit up and look at you inquiringly as you pass then relapse back to sleep if you show no interest.

It is a town that attracts the more 'off the main beaten track' type of traveler not that it is difficult to get to, just a two hour journey from Sihanoukville or four hours bus from Phnom Penh it offers a sleepy laid back place that you feel is quietly resting in time keeping away from modern expansion and the scurry of large scale tourist development.

The area is famous for its superb Kampot black pepper which features highly in the many delicious meals served in the restaurants around town and it is indeed a tasty sharp but almost sweet flavour adding a lovely snap to any meal.

The people of Kampot reflect this peaceful nice slow way of life, never hassling you for anything but always quick to pleasantly help when asked, as a place to spend a few days resting in a busy travel schedule of climbing temples, bumping along on buses and weaving traffic it is difficult to imagine any place more ideal.

Nearby to Kampot is the coastal town of Kep which doesn't have the most fantastic beaches and is a bit of an odd place it has no real centre just a few shops cafes and places to stay along the shore. I would recommend staying in Kampot and taking a day trip to Kep.

Also close by to Kampot are the Bokor Hills which remain a little cooler than the lowlands around them, originally developed by the french during colonial years as a summer escape it was abandoned during the Khmer Rouge years and now stands mostly deserted, pleasant for a day visit to catch the views all around.

I enjoy a couple of days in and around Kampot chilling, writing and eating and the time does that thing where it stands still and goes by quickly at the same time...... each day seems slow and endless with no hurry then boom the days have passed and its time to leave.. (I am currently working on a time displacement theory to explain this).

So it is with a sad heart I depart Kampot on the afternoon bus - so I could fit in a relaxing late breakfast and dinner before returning to the hustle of the capital Phnom Penh which is a stop on the way back to Siem Reap from where I leave Cambodia.

Cambodia

What did I think of Cambodia?

Well it certainly is quite the country with amazing locations to visit and some of the most wonderful people, in some areas you can see/feel the full bad influence that large scale tourism and ease of access is having but even in these locations you can avoid these negative elements by wandering away from the main well trodden paths and you will find the more chilled relaxed Cambodia
As a destination I would say the highlights are the history - with outstanding temples and the people of Cambodia, take the time to talk to them and you will have some great experiences.
The beaches are lovely and offer that mix of warm water and sandy beach while having activities, food, drink and entertainment all on hand.
Phnom Penh the capital of Cambodia is a hot sticky busy city, you get some relief down by the river front but it is the food and nightlife that make Phnom Penh, otherwise the silver palace, museum and the foreign correspondents club are really all there is to see and do in the city, you may arrive/depart or pass through Phnom Penh during your visit to Cambodia but unless you are after the late night party disco scene there is not a lot to hold you in the city.

Taken in its stride Cambodia will help you walk a little slower, relax a little more, hopefully not test your patience too much and you should leave with great memories of a country that really has its feet in two different worlds. I love this, the way you Cambodia can offer modern amenities (internet, phone, ice cold drinks, comfy quality accommodation, tasty food) at a reasonable cost while treating everyone with such respect and comfortably accepting the visitor into their ancient culture where monks roam the streets and temples, shoes are traditionally removed when entering buildings, 'normal' local life continues around the modern visitor who should choose to embrace this culture - (not change it or 'update' it)

I hope this blend of old and new lasts for many more years before the lure of money takes over and everything becomes commercialized and traditional standards of love, life, respect and religion are abandoned for money and goods.

 

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